R 维 生 素 维生素在化妆品中的应用 朱萍 罗氏中国有限公司.

Presentation on theme: "R 维 生 素 维生素在化妆品中的应用 朱萍 罗氏中国有限公司."— Presentation transcript:

1 r 维 生 素 维生素在化妆品中的应用 朱萍 罗氏中国有限公司

2 可应用于化妆品中的维生素 维生素A、B、C、E、H、K

3 维生素分类 水溶性维生素 维生素C，B（B3，B5，B6）和H 脂溶性维生素 维生素A，维生素E，维生素K

4 维生素的功效与作用

5 VA的性质 １、目前较多使用VA醋酸酯和棕榈酸酯 ２、黄色油状，有时会有结晶出现 ３、加入时温度不超过４０Ｃ ４、对氧化、光敏感
６、需使用螯合剂 ７、PH＝4.5～6.5稳定

6 VA换算关系 1I.U.VA活性物=0.550g VA棕榈酸酯 1I.U.VA活性物=0.344g VA醋酸酯

7 ＶＡ酯的功效与作用 能渗入表皮，经皮肤吸收转变为ＶＡ醇 刺激细胞分裂，活化细胞 增厚表皮 改善皮肤弹性 刺激胶原蛋白形成 使表皮角质化正常
减少UV光导致的皱纹的生成 牙膏：促进黏液分泌上皮的增生，改善牙龈状态

8 维生素A提高皮肤弹性

9 维生素A提高皮肤胶原蛋白含量 Collagen content nmol hydroxyproline/unit
Vitamin A palmitate (IU/ml)

10 VA减少皱纹形成 Wrinkling

11 ＶＢ３的性质 １、目前多使用烟酰胺(Vpp) ２、白色结晶粉末 ３、对光、热、氧化皆稳定
4、可自由溶于水和乙醇中，可溶于甘油，微溶于醚和氯仿 5、PH=5~9稳定 6、温度70C

12 维生素B3的功效与作用 使皮肤美白 抗粉刺 抗老化 促进头皮血液循环，促进头发生长 促进牙龈的血液微循环，健康牙龈，防止口腔黏膜病症

13 烟酰胺美白功效

14 烟酰胺抗粉刺功效

15 ＶＢ５性质 １、无色至淡黄色、无味透明高粘度液体 ２、一般使用泛醇形式 ３、对光、热（７５Ｃ）、氧、重金属均不敏感 ４、ＰＨ＝４～７稳定

16 维生素B5的功效与作用 渗入皮肤、头发和指甲可转化为泛酸 护肤： 抗炎症 促进伤口愈合 保湿 头发护理 增加头发强度

17 维生素B5的功效与作用（续） 牙膏 刺激成纤维细胞增殖，有益于牙龈 保湿，滞留唾液 促进溃疡愈合 肥皂： 柔软皮肤，减少红斑 改善指甲弹性

18 D-泛醇促进伤口愈合 产品 伤口治愈时间（小时） 膏霜基质 108.0 0.3%泛醇膏霜 102.0 1.0%泛醇膏霜 85.0
产品 伤口治愈时间（小时） 膏霜基质 0.3%泛醇膏霜 102.0 1.0%泛醇膏霜 85.0 2.5%泛醇膏霜 84.0 5.0%泛醇膏霜 68.5

19 D-泛醇在头发上的沉积性

20 D-泛醇对头发的渗透性

21 D-泛醇对头发的保湿性

22 D-泛醇对头发强度的增加

23 ＶＢ６的性质 １、盐酸吡哆醇是较稳定的形式 ２、无臭、味酸苦白色结晶粉末 ３、对氧和热稳定，对光、重金属敏感，所以应避免透明包装
4、PH=2~8 5、温度小于70度

24 维生素B6的功效与作用 防止皮肤粗糙、粉刺、日光晒伤 使头部皮肤的蛋白质和氨基酸代谢正常化 调节皮脂腺活力，可作皮肤、头发控油产品
维护毛囊和头发的健康并治疗脱发

25 B族维生素对毛囊生长的促进作用

26 ＶＣ的性质 １、常用ＶＣ的衍生物形式（磷酸酯钠，磷酸酯镁等） ２、ＳＴＡＹ－Ｃ５０无味白色粉末 ３、ＰＨ大于６.５稳定 ４、小于４5Ｃ加入
5、 需加入螯合剂

27 维生素C的功效与作用 护肤 抗氧化剂，防止氧化损伤 皮肤美白剂 刺激胶原蛋白合成 再生维生素E 香皂 防止汗液氧化，具除臭功效 抗氧化 美白

28 维生素C的功效与作用（续） 牙膏： 防止牙龈出血 修复口腔黏膜屏障 抗炎 促进牙周皮肤胶原合成

29 STAY-C® 50 皮肤美白作用 -57% STAY-C® 50 - 实际活性含量0.068% (0.14% STAY-C® 50 )
在没有刺激的情况下8天后测试黑色素 经过一些独立的实验，结果显示有明显的差别 STAY-C® 50 可减少人体黑色素细胞中黑色素57%的含量

30 STAY-C® 50抗氧化作用  STAY-C® 50 + VE醋酸酯
1% Vit E acetate 4 30 40 5 10 15 20 25 35 % Inhibition Placebo The inhibitory effect is again calculated in relation to untreated area in %. The 30% protection of the squalene peroxidation by 1% STAY-C® 50 is the same as shown in the previous slide. In combination with another well-known antioxidant the protection was even more pronounced. 1% vitamin E acetate leads in addition to an increased protection of 25%. These studies provide compelling evidence for the free radical hypothesis of UVA-light induced cutaneous pathology -lipid peroxidation increased on irradiation and the topical application with an antioxidant system prevented this damage.  STAY-C® 50 和VE醋酸酯结合能非常有效地保护皮肤免受光氧化

31 STAY-C® 50 去除自由基阻止光老化 23.6% 46.7%  维生素具有抗氧化性的效果 w/Sunscreen (SPF 8) +
Vitamin E Acetate STAY-C® 50 23.6% %  维生素具有抗氧化性的效果

32 STAY-C 50 提高皮肤紧致度 after 42 days 35 30 31 25 % Increased Firmness 20 15
14 20 31 5 10 15 25 30 35 % Increased Firmness Placebo 1% STAY-C 50 3% STAY-C 50 after 42 days  0.05

33 STAY-C® 50 在牙膏中 牙膏稳定性 加入Sodium Monofluorophosphate
Room temperature 43°C

34 ＶＥ性质 １、常用ＶＥ醋酸酯形式 ２、无色至黄色透明粘稠液体，无味 ３、对光、氧、热不敏感，对重金属敏感 ４、ＰＨ＝３.５～８.５
5、温度小于100度 6、1I.U.VE=1mg VE醋酸酯

35 维生素E的功效与作用 抗氧化剂，清除自由基，减少UV光伤害（过氧化、红斑），渗入皮肤转化为ＶＥ 帮助伤口愈合，抗击炎症 帮助增加SPF值
保湿

36 维生素E的功效与作用（续） 肥皂 牙膏 保湿 使皮肤柔软 抗氧化 抗击炎症，预防牙周疾病 促进酶活，促进溃疡愈合
促进牙龈血液微循环，健康牙龈 抗击老化

37 含VE皂基对皮肤柔软性测试

38 2.5%VE醋酸酯增加SPF值

39 含1%维生素E醋酸酯香波对头发的影响

40 VH性质 VH又称生物素 白色晶体粉末 微溶于水（0.02g/100ml）和乙醇中 对光、热、重金属均不敏感，对氧不太敏感 pH=5~8
温度小于65度

41 VH的功效与作用 防止脱发，增强发质，促进生发

42 VK性质 无味，黄色油状粘性液体 在空气中会缓慢降解 在光照下很快降解 对热稳定，对碱不稳定，对重金属离子敏感 温度小于65度
PH=3.5~6.5

43 维生素K的功效与作用 与ＶＡ结合去除黑眼圈 抗击血管的失调与紊乱

44 维生素A和K消除黑眼圈 0天 周 周 周 周 治疗组 对照组 L*的变化

45 P & G 海飞丝去屑洗发水 Country Thailand
Zinc pyrithione (1%), 0.25% sodium benzoate, % benzyl alcohol, water, ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium chloride, glycol distearate, dimethicone, zinc pyrithione, fragrance, cetyl alcohol, cocamide MEA, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, sodium citrate, hydrogenated polydecene, sodium benzoate, trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate, tocopheryl acetate, niacinamide, citric acid, ammonium xylenesulfonate, benzyl alcohol, methylchlorosiothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, ext, violet 2, blue 1

46 L‘Oreal多维生素护发素 Country Guatemala
Water, cetyl alcohol, PEG-180, amodimethicone/tridecet-12/cetrimonium chloride, estearamidopropyl dimetilamine, fragrance, lactic acid, cetyl esters, methylparaben, hydroxyetilcellulose, laurilmethicone copolyol, lanolin, niacinamide, tocoferol acetate, D-panthenol, dichlorhydrate chlorohexidine

47 Bath & Body Works喷雾型体露 Country India
Water, propylene glycol, propylene glycol isoceteth-3 acetate, cetyl alcohol, freesia fragrance, panthenol, retinyl palmitate, tocopherol acetate, aloe barbadensis extract, sodium PCA, meadowfoam seed oil, sesame oil, sweet almond oil, stearic acid, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, glycerin, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, titanium dioxide, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, magnesium aluminium silicate, benzophenone-4, methylparaben, propylparaben, diazolidinyl urea, red 33 (CI 17200), blue 1 (CI 42090)

48 Pond‘s紧肤霜 Country Hungary
Aqua, cetearyl alcohol, glycerin, isopropyl palmitate, cyclomethicone, paraffinum liquidum, PEG-20 stearate, cera alba, octyl methoxycinnamate, squalane, olea europaea, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, tocopherol acetate, hydrolysed elastin, hydrolysed collagen, propylparaben, triethanolamine, allantoin, disodium EDTA, retinyl palmitate, methylparaben, panthenol, glycolic acid, ammonium hydroxide, phenoxyethanol, parfum, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, CI 15985, CI 14700

49 L‘Oreal 抗皱眼霜 Country Mexico
　 Water, glycerine, hydrogenated polyisobutane, squalene cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, stearate PEG-40, petrolatum, paraffin, sorbitan triestearate, imidazolidinyl urea, retinol, methylparaben, propylparaben, PEI-10/soybean oil, phosphoric acid, retinyl palmitate, cholesterol, hydrogenated lecithin

50 Nivea 抗皱霜 Country Sweden
Night variant: aqua, glycerin, octyl cocoate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, caprylic/capric triglyceride, butylene glycol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, butyrospermum parkii, tocopheryl acetate, biosaccharide gum-1, macadamia ternifolia, ubiquinone, retinyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, tridecyl trimellitate, sodium carbomer, dipentaerythrityl exacaprylate/hexacaprate, lanolin alcohol, trisodium EDTA, DMDM hydantoin, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, parfum

51 Px Prescriptives 美白霜 Country Philippines
hydrogenated polyisobutene, butylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, cyclomethicone, shea butter, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, isostearyl neopentanoate, potato starch, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, tocopheryl acetate, saxifraga sarmentosa extract, grape extract, cholesterol, caffeine, linoleic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, ceramide 2, sodium hyaluronate, mulberry root extract, scutellaria baicalenis extract, coriander, gentian extract, hydrolyzed rice bran extract, polybutene, sucrose, hydrogenated lecithin, Californian grapefruit, behenyl alcohol, methyldihydrojasmonate, lavender, floralozone, propylene glycol, trisodium EDTA, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, sodium dehydroacete, methylparaben

52 Fade Out 脸部红肿治疗 Country New Zealand
Fine Fragrances & Cosmetics has launched under the Fade Out name, Facial Redness Remedy. It is a facial treatment with vitamin K, said to help clear & conceal broken capillaries and facial redness. Also available in the range is a Leg Treatment Cream (see relevant category).

53 La Prairie 眼部护理产品 Country UK
La Prairie has launched Age Management Stimulus Complex, a combination of retinol and vitamin K lotion designed for the eye area which feeds the skin over a ten hour period and helps to maintain a firm skin, minimise under-eye circles, reduce wrinkles and give a bright look to the eye.

54 Mary Kay 去除黑眼圈 Country USA
Water, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, glycerin, C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, dimethicone, cetyl ricinoleate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, phytonadione, benzyl alcohol, polysorbate 60, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, retinol, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, bisabolol, PEG-10 soy stearoyl, methyl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, magnesium aluminum silicate, stearic acid, BHT, propyl gallate, disodium EDTA, methylparaben, phenoxyethanol, polysorbate 20, triethanolamine Made with vitamin K, this product helps reduce the appearance of circles and fine lines

55 Irish Spring维生素肥皂 Country Canada
The company introduces Irish Spring Vitamins Bar Soap. It is said to deliver vitamin E to the skin, which helps keep skin healthy. The bars are sold individually wrapped in a 6-ct. package for C$2.74 in supermarkets and mass merchandise stores in Ontario.

56 Dial 维生素肥皂 Country USA soap (sodium tallowate, sodium palm kernelate, sodium palmitate, sodium stearate), water, glycerin, lauric acid, fragrance, PEG-8, sodium chloride, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate), panthenol (provitamin B5), retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate), pentasodium pentetate, tetrasodium etidronate, citric acid, red 4 (CI 14700), yellow 5 (CI 19140)

57 Palmolive 维生素肥皂 Country Colombia
Sodium oleate/sodium laurate (sodium soap), water, petrolatum, fragrance, glycerin, phosphoric acid, mica, titanium dioxide, polyquaternium-6, dimethicone, tocopherol acetate, pentasodium pentatate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, FD&C red No. 4 (CI 14700), retinyl palmitate, D&C orange No. 4 (CI 15510)

58 此资料来自 www.3722.cn 台商讯息网, 大量管理资料下载
Mouth Rinse with STAY-C® 50 launched October 2001 in the United States. DESCRIPTION This crystal-clear, alcohol-free rinse is designed to help maintain your bright white smile BriteSmile, Inc, USA. INGREDIENTS Water, glycern, pentasodium triphosphate. PEG 180, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, sodium benzoate, flavour, and sodium saccharin 此资料来自 台商讯息网, 大量管理资料下载

59 此资料来自 www.3722.cn 台商讯息网, 大量管理资料下载
Toothpaste with Vitamin A,C,E launched 2001 in israel Company : Tropical Degil DESCRIPTION : This is said to provent plaque and gum desease. INGREDIENTS : sodium lauryl sulfate, vitamin A, tocopheryl acetate, sodium ascorbate 此资料来自 台商讯息网, 大量管理资料下载

60 Azione 360 度牙膏 Country Italy
Sorbitol, hydrated silica, aqua, xylitol, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, polysorbate 60, disodium pyrosphosphate, sodium lauryl sulfate, aroma, cellulose gum, sodium monofluorophosphate, jojoba esters, sodium fluoride, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, propylene glycol, centella asiatica, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium saccharin, triclosan, sodium methylparaben, sodium propylparaben, CI 77891, CI 77077, CI 42090, CI 47005

61 谢 谢！