顾腾顾问有限公司（Gouten Consulting Ltd.） 如何运营奢侈品牌？ 顾腾顾问有限公司（Gouten Consulting Ltd.） 2012年6月

自我简介 顾腾（Francis Gouten） >35年奢侈品 生意经验 伯爵国际 CEOPiaget >在香港 工作25年 卡地亚法国公司 董事总经理 顾腾（Francis Gouten） >35年奢侈品 生意经验 伯爵国际 CEOPiaget >在香港 工作25年 I have been working in the business of luxury goods for more than 35 years. Having spent more than 25 years in Hong Kong, I have a special relationship with Asia and understand its complex luxury market, with all its challenges and opportunities. As the former CEO of Richemont Asia Pacific, one of the world's leading luxury groups, I have worked closely with some of the most prestigious names in the business, including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Alfred Dunhill and Jaeger-LeCoultre, to name a few. I arrived in HK to develop Cartier in the 1970s, taking it from a relatively unknown brand with just a few boutiques, to the leading international luxury brand we know today. I am currently an advisor to several local luxury groups, and also sit on the Board of Directors of several companies. I saw the development of the luxury business of the 40 years. 2006年创立 历峰集团 亚太区CEO

“卡地亚，国王的珠宝商，珠宝商的国王！” 什么是奢侈品？ “卡地亚，国王的珠宝商，珠宝商的国王！” ——英国国王爱德华七世 1922年，卡地亚家族 We can’t talk about the luxury business today, if we do not analyse what happen in the last 40 years. Before luxury was exclusive productions made by a “maison”, an family owned artcrafts business, devoted to the wealthiest people who buy their production.

工业革命的爆发，技术的改进，海外探险及殖民冒险，带来了特殊材料，催生了旅游业。在十九世纪中叶以后，爱马仕（Hermès）、路易威登（Louis Vuitton）、卡地亚、蒂芙尼（Tiffany）等品牌纷纷创建起来。 传统的奢侈品家族 家族式手工艺企业 富裕的 客户 众所周知的高质量 发达的技术及社交本领 The industrial revolution, the improvement of techniques, exploration and colonial adventures brings exotic precious materials, allows the beginning of tourism. New brands are established, especially from the mid-nineteenth century: Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Tiffany...

过去40年的全球化 The first time I came to HK, there were three or four stops with the plane, there was no mobile phone, and the best way to communicate with my head quarter was the telex. When I wanted to the buy the latest technology under the pressure of my staff, a fax, the Japanese product, at that time, was not compatible with the French system.

信息和传播技术的兴起 Now, any news information launching, any complain, is spread instantly all around the world with new technology. We can’t do business in the same way.

品牌发展遍布全球 巴黎Neuve des Capucines街的路易威登（LV）精品店于1854年开业。 2011年，最新一家路易威登精品店在新加坡滨海湾开业。  The majority of the global luxury brands have established their awareness with a long history and today a global worldwide presence with flagshipstores.

奢侈品牌的两种类型 坚硬型奢侈品 奢侈品服务基于： 古老的家族生意 具有很强的社交本领 众所周知的高质量 富豪客户 员工得到很好的培训，对客户的习惯烂熟于心 强大的品牌个性源自荣耀的传奇的遗产 营销型奢侈品 昂贵的消费品通过强力营销及名人垂范购买，散发出奢侈的气息 I always consider for myself, there are two major types of luxury, apart from services.

奢侈品牌的两种类型 坚硬型 奢侈品 营销型 这类奢侈品时间越久价值越高 随着时间的流逝，这类奢侈品逐渐落伍，被消费，被完结，消失于无形 没有可持续性

坚硬型奢侈品 营销型奢侈品 A watch, a jewel, a bag (only iconic ones) will improves its value with the time, and there won’t be sales by the end of the season. Marketing luxury is not-sustainable product: when the bottle is empty, you throw it away.   About fashion, after two seasons a year, then there will be automatically sales! The development of a product in hard luxury takes several years and is the result of a long know-how. I’ve never seen on the auction an empty box of make up or a T-shirt, from a well known brand.

营销型奢侈品的兴起 坚硬型 奢侈品 营销型 奢侈品 时装 珠宝 饰品 手表 化妆品 及香水 But, during the past 30-40years, we saw the rise of marketing luxury: fashion, accessories, perfume and cosmetics. They spend huge amounts of money in communication and focus on reaching a bigger number of consumers, with a higher buying power and infected by the brand mania. 手表 化妆品 及香水

品牌控制 奢侈品牌对其分销渠道的控制比任何时候都要强烈 12

奢侈品金字塔： 消费量占比 高度定制的奢侈品服务，专门为高标准的客户 高级奢侈品： 服务 为教育水平较高、奢华意识较高的消费者服务的奢侈品，这类消费者已经超越奢侈品商标，追求更好的产品质量 上升型奢侈品： “身披”著名的奢侈品牌，价格适中，很多人都能买得起，比如化妆品、 商标型奢侈品： 眼镜

奢侈品金字塔： 传播占比 高级奢侈品 上升型奢侈品 商标型奢侈品

先探讨一下最高级的…… ……遍及每个人 The sumptuous advertisements campaigns broadcast brands name and visual identity which help to sell cheaper product of the brand.

Even a brand like Chow Tai Fook, which is the best success of the last ten years, with around 1thousand 6hunderds stores in China, and known to sale only gold or first price products, must use the same strategy to increase its awareness and sale to the mass.

传播工具

陈列顶尖产品，突显其品牌名，从而提升更小产品的广告  It’s a must for a luxury brand to build and reinforce its strength, based on the top of the range, and this is a must in communication. Always target the top of the pyramid of the consumers if you want to sell to a larger scale.

从传统广告…… From basic printed media, in magazines

……到在线展示 A global luxury brand can’t be out of the new technology but must absolutely control its image.

奢侈品牌的在线传播 成功案例研究 博柏利（Burberry）在Facebook上拥有超过1200万粉丝，位居奢侈品牌首位。 Burberry has developed a blog dedicated to its iconic trench, where users upload pictures of themselves wearing their trench. Visitors can comment, like and share on Facebook or Twitter hence another way to gather Burberry fans. 博柏利被认为是运用社会性媒体最好的奢侈品牌。

Chloe Paddington包的案例研究 产品植入广告： Chloe Paddington包的案例研究 SOLD OUT! 22

通过奢侈品符号来传播

：以廉价销售的品牌，却像高价奢侈品牌那样运作 A brand like H&M which is selling quantities at first price is using all the tools of luxury brand, to communicate the largest target of people.

：以廉价销售的品牌，却像高价奢侈品牌那样运作 与奢侈品行业最著名的 创意总监和服装设计师合作 Huge communication inspired by the top names using a top designer to sign the line of products

中国市场怎么样呢？

中国国内需求的发展 中国人越来越老练，追求精致的产品。 China is going incredibly fast. Chinese people will be more and more aware about brands and luxury. They aren’t anymore naive. There will be informed clients, demanding more and more of service and quality. And some brands in fashion started to conquest the local market already. Despite the Chinese reputation of appetite for knock-off luxury goods, Chinese consumers are changing sharply: they are looking for real quality product, a know-how, an experience. In a word they upgrade their seek of higher standard of quality and service.

外国品牌必须小心 Some luxury brands have opened to many stores  Depreciation of their image. Some Chinese start to steer clear of some brands Some local brands may start to concurrence them

中国国内需求的发展 Sooner or later brands which will be able to satisfy these criteria (quality, creativity…) will get the same perception as other western marketing luxury brands.

中国国内需求的发展 中国奢侈品牌的兴起，拥有高标准的质量 中国潜力巨大 东北虎（Ne Tiger） 上下（Shang Xia） 贞 夏姿.陈（Shiatzy Chen） 东北虎（Ne Tiger） 上下（Shang Xia） 麒麟（Qeelin） 贞 （Mary Ching） 源（Blanc de Chine） 中国国内需求的发展 中国奢侈品牌的兴起，拥有高标准的质量 中国潜力巨大

中国国内需求的发展 如何提升你的品牌？ 打造强大品牌的步骤 从优质的和（或）差异化的产品着手 分析并选择目标客户群 拥有打造强大品牌的知识，获得高级管理层的支持 发现品牌的非凡之处，并制定相应的广告向客户传播 对品牌进行正确的市场定位 用特定的词语吸引客户的心 利用客户的情绪 通过视觉、语言和行动来打造品牌形象 通过合适的销售人员（他们具有很强的销售说服力）来有效地营销品牌形象 让广告有活力：传递品牌承诺；一致地、持续地传播 衡量品牌资本（与竞争对手比较）（例如通过市场调查、品牌计分卡的方式） 继续完善品牌 资料来源：罗兰·贝格国际管理咨询公司、德国营销杂志《Absatzwirtschaft》 There is a necessity of a general improvement of production to satisfy Chinese customers and attract them to purchase, rather than let them splurge in foreign luxury brands.

中国应该停止模仿，应该基于自己的历史和创造力来创造自己的奢侈产品 中国国内需求的发展 中国应该停止模仿，应该基于自己的历史和创造力来创造自己的奢侈产品

中国新一代年轻人的创造力 中国国内需求的发展 New young Chinese designers will first work and learn from Western brands, before develop globalized big local luxury brands. Around 30 years ago, we saw the first Japanese creative people moving to the western world, either to create the own brands or be the head designers of big names. I’m convinced it will be the same for China.

中国的奢侈品需求将越来越大，但是奢侈品牌还没有抢到自己应有的那份蛋糕，因此仍然有大量的机会。 结论 中国的奢侈品需求将越来越大，但是奢侈品牌还没有抢到自己应有的那份蛋糕，因此仍然有大量的机会。